Which wine goes in which glass?

If you’ve ever shopped for wine glasses you’ve likely found yourself falling down the rabbit hole, tumbling into the abyss of options that inevitably leave you wondering whether you even need them in the first place. It seems like everyone has a new wine glass to peddle these days and with so many shapes, sizes, materials, and prices to choose from I often find myself wondering how ANYONE ever makes a decision on what to buy. 

Over the last decade as a professional sommelier, I’ve learned enough to unequivocally say glassware does actually make a difference in the enjoyment of wine. But do you REALLY need a specific glass for viognier? I’m willing to bet for most, the answer is no. So with that in mind, here’s what you need to know when shopping for glasses and determining which wine goes in which.

The Basics:

There are four general categories of glasses for table wines that you need to know about:

  • White Wine / All-Purpose

  • Burgundy Glass

  • Bordeaux Glass

  • Champagne Flute or Tulip

White Wine / All-Purpose Glass

The simplest, smallest, and most efficient of the categories, the aptly named all-purpose is the one wine glass no collection should be without. You’ll notice it has approximately the same width from base to rim as the Bordeaux glass does- almost as if it’s a mini-version - but the overall diameter and height is much smaller. As the name would suggest, the All-Purpose is a multi-use glass that can be used widely across the spectrum of grape varieties and styles. 

Primary Use: Light bodied, crisp white wines like Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, and Vermentino as well as Rosé and Sparkling Wines.

Burgundy Glass

Named for the Burgundy (Bourgogne) region in France, the Burgundy glass is intended for the two primary grapes in the region: Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Much larger than the All-Purpose glass, the Burgundy is marked by a wider bowl at the base that tapers up at about a 30-45 degree angle to the rim. This is to account for the fact that the majority of the wines that go in this glass are aromatic but also will benefit from some oxygen. The wider base allows more surface area to be exposed to air, but the tapering helps to prevent all of the aromatics from escaping.

Primary Use: Full bodied white wines including Chardonnay, Roussanne, Marsanne, and Chenin Blanc and light-medium bodied red wines including Pinot Noir, Grenache, Zinfandel, Syrah, Sangiovese, and Nebbiolo.

Bordeaux Glass

Like the Burgundy glass, the Bordeaux glass is named for the region of Bordeaux and is intended for the 5 famous red grapes of the region: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Malbec. The glass is generally the largest of the categories with a larger bowl that stays approximately the same width from base to rim. Wines in this glass are usually fuller bodied and want to be exposed to oxygen but are generally less intensely aromatic.

Primary Use: Full bodied red wines including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec, and Petite Sirah

Champagne Flute / Tulip

Which glass sparkling wine actually goes in is a hotly contested debate among wine pros and sparkling wine enthusiasts alike. Until recently, the de facto glass used in restaurants was the Champagne flute. But more and more the tulip and even the all-purpose glass have become the standard - especially when it comes to higher end sparkling wines. Because while the Champagne flute beautifully displays the tiny bubbles rising, its narrow opening limits the sparkling wines ability to showcase those delicious brioche aromatics and move around in the glass. As a result, I like to utilize the flute for lower quality sparklings used for toasting and brunching and the tulip or AP for something a little more special.

Primary Use: Sparkling Wine, Sparkling Wine Cocktails

Exceptions to the rule!

For every rule there is an exception right?! And in places like California where grapes can morph from region to region because of all the diverse microclimates, it’s important to know where you could potentially change it up a bit. For example, in this article “How to ‘Style’ California Sauvignon Blanc,” I talk about all the different ways in which Sauvignon Blanc can be grown and made. Because while grape variety is important, terroir plays a major in role in how a wine will taste and there’s no better region than California to showcase just how important region is when it comes to wine. And that’s something we want to highlight in the glass. Glassware can amplify or even alter certain flavors and textures in wine, so use them like a secret weapon and always to your advantage. Here are a few exceptions or modifications you might consider when choosing your perfect glass

“I want something crisp”

When I was working the floor at a restaurant a popular wine-critic ordered a glass of wine. It was a California white blend of 4 different grapes including Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay and as I poured him a taste, he said he liked it but actually preferred something a little more angular and crisp. Now normally I would have poured him something else, but instead I discretely swapped the Burgundy glass I had originally poured the wine in for a white wine/all-purpose glass. Not knowing the only thing different was the glass, he looked up and replied “much better, I love it.” I smiled. “It’s the same, wine, just a different glass.” He was absolutely floored. I used that trick often on the floor and it was proof that sometimes all you need is to change the glassware. Where the Burgundy glass was accomodating the broad, rich texture of the California-grown Chardonnay, the smaller glass helped to pull the wine together and accentuate the angularity of the Sauvignon Blanc. Moral of the story, whenever you want that wine to be just a little more crisp, angular, and tight, put it in a smaller glass.

“Oldie but Goodie”

Not all California Cabernet wants to be in your biggest Bordeaux glass. I learned that lesson the hard way a few times at the previously mentioned restaurant when I poured old bottles of Napa Valley Cabernet from the 1960’s in a Bordeaux glass only to watch them completely fall apart in 10min. When you’re dealing with oldies, sometimes bigger isn’t better. Wines with age can often benefit from the same scenario as above - a smaller, tighter glass to keep things focused - and can falter when given too much air. There are some situations, especially with more delicate red wines, in which an all-purpose white wine glass is the superior glass. Don’t feel weird about it and give yourself permission to try it.

Which ones to buy:

When you’re starting to look for glasses it’s best to have a plan in place before you find yourself with seven open tabs and multiple abandoned carts. Most of these will seem like common sense, but I’ve found these parameters will really help to narrow down exactly what you need. Here are some primary considerations:

  • Space

    • I put this at the top of the list for a reason. If space is a commodity, you need to prioritize. If you can only fit 4 glasses, consider how many people will be joining you and your bottles of wine. Here’s how I’d approach it:

      • Solo drinker: 1 from each category (all-purpose, Burgundy, Bordeaux, Sparkling)

      • Party of 2: 2 all-purpose, 2 burgundy

      • 4 or more: 4 all-purpose

  • Price

    • The same rules around space can be applied to price. Expect to spend anywhere from $25-$65 per glass for something of quality. Budget according to how many you’ll need and take it from there.

  • Use

    • There’s a few substitutions you could make for the above parameters. For example, if you’re only a Cabernet Sauvignon drinker consider swapping out 2 Burgundy glasses for 2 Bordeaux. Be selfish and really consider what you’ll be drinking personally.

  • Durability

    • Some glassware - while beautiful - just isn’t that durable. If you’re not someone that wants to hand wash and polish glasses, consider something that is dishwasher safe. There are plenty of great durable options out there that are incredibly beautiful.

Brands to consider

It seems as though everyones in the wine glass business these days. I even recently spotted some at an “Off-White” Boutique in Paris. And while stunning, I can’t condone purchasing glassware from a company who doesn’t specialize in it. My recommendation is to seek out glassware from tried and true brands like the following:

  • Riedel

  • Schott Zwiesel

  • Gabriel Glas

  • Mark Thomas

  • Zalto

  • Sophienwald