Austin Hope Winery | Photo credit: James Collier for California Wines

A LITTLE BIT COUNTRY, A LITTLE BIT ROCK AND ROLL

To the outside world, Paso can read a bit like the poor man’s Napa Valley and more akin to a discount sex-shop: “Step inside for hedonism at a fraction of the price you’d find in Napa Valley. ” And as a Napa Valley resident, my interest in Paso was particularly piqued for that reason. Big, high-octane reds at reasonable prices are becoming more scarce than water in these parts. Knowing the pedigree of Napa Valley winemakers and vintners trekking down with regularity to make wine, consult on projects, and in some cases, invest their own money — it made Paso even more alluring. But having never been there — and not having experienced enough wines to make a fully formed opinion — my preconceptions were misguided, misinformed, and frankly, a little embarrassing.

Paso is definitely happening. What was once an “up and coming” wine region, is now a fully-formed adult with personality, maturity, a sense of self, and a point of view. It’s a wine region that is unbelievably diverse, full of hidden gems, and well worth exploring once you climb inside. And adult though it may be, Paso still hasn’t lost its rustic roots. You won’t find Michelin 3-starred restaurants (though Paso JUST picked up their first Michelin star courtesy of Six Test Kitchen so they are on their way!) or a Four Seasons, but there are well-appointed boutique hotels aplenty and plenty of diverse and delicious food options. A little bit country, a little bit rock and roll, the juxtaposition of low-key country-charm and renegade-rich areas like Tin City makes this one of my new favorite destinations.

For established wine lovers, Paso is a must-see as soon as possible. The success here feels in line with what the history books suggest Napa Valley was in the 1990s. If I were a betting gal, I’d stake my money on this place exploding in the same way over the next 20 years. And yes, I do mean in price as well as popularity. California is not getting any cheaper and natural resources are finite. This prediction isn’t courtesy of a crystal ball, it’s a simple supply and demand calculation. The wines are VERY good, and getting better by the year.

As for the wine-curious, Paso is a perfect region to have fun and get your feet wet without feeling out of place. There is no pretense here — by design. And while Rhone Blends and Cab are ostensibly king, there is a wide array of grapes and plenty of different styles being made at all price points. So whether you want to bop around Tin City and try a bunch of wines, or settle in at Austin Hope for a guided artisanal cheese and wine tasting, the world is your oyster my friend.

Paso Robles Vineyards | Photo Credit: James Collier for California Wines

GETTING HERE

Paso Robles is almost exactly between San Francisco and Los Angeles — about a 3.5hr drive in either direction. And while it’s not near a whole hell of a lot in terms of bustling cities, the tiny (but mighty) San Luis Obispo airport is only 40 min away and offers several direct flights from major hubs including Dallas, Denver, Phoenix, and Seattle.

If you’re driving, have podcasts and playlists ready. From the Bay Area or SoCal, it’s a fairly straightforward — albeit slightly boring — drive mostly through long stretches of California’s agricultural areas. It’s definitely a fascinating site to see first-hand where two-thirds of our nation’s produce and nuts are grown. But unless you’re taking the longer, more scenic route down the Pacific Coast Highway (a white-knuckled doozy of a drive), it’s not exactly one you’re going to relish. You might consider making a wine-country road-trip out of it by stopping to visit other major California wine regions along the way like Santa Barbara, Ojai, San Luis Obispo, and Monterey — but it’s certainly worthy of a stand-alone weekend getaway at the very least.

Whether driving or flying, you’ll want a car to navigate around. As is the case with most of California’s wine regions, ride-share apps are not always reliable. So whether you hire a driver for your stay or rent a car (as always, designate a sober driver), make sure you have a means of transportation as things will not be walkable on foot.

WHAT TO DO

TIN CITY

If there’s one thing that sort of surmises the progress of Paso Robles, it has to be Tin City. Paso, in many ways, has become the epicenter for the mavericks and outliers of the industry determined to prove themselves and make it in spite of enormous odds and costs. Tin City, is their church.

Tin City isn’t a “city” so much as a collective of industrial tin warehouses lining a series of cul-de-sacs, interspersed with California greenery, bridges, and walking paths, and outfitted by the renegades just crazy and desperate enough to set up shop in what was once no-man’s land. It’s still relatively new by Paso standards, but Tin City, and its inhabitants, have enjoyed enormous success in the last few years. You’ll find everything from under-the-radar and up and coming, to straight up Paso Robles rockstars in here. It is, by far, the coolest place in Paso and an experience you would be an actual idiot to miss.

And while you might be tempted to call it a “wine trail,” it’s actually so much more than that. Makers and breweries (cider AND beer) have all set up shop here to offer visitors a behind-the-scenes glimpse at their operations and an opportunity to enjoy the gorgeous California sunshine while sipping and eating. In some cases, you’re literally amongst the barrels and forklifts, but many offer a little tasting area respite. Park anywhere, start wherever, and keep it moving when you want. There’s no one way to do it.

Do yourself a favor and watch the short doc on it (here’s the trailer on YouTube and the whole film for free here) before heading there to fully grasp how f’ing cool this all is.

tin city Winery standouts:

Levo: Elegant, yet true to the Paso style - these wines exuded fine-winemaking with delicate restraint and balance without ever feeling the least bit clunky. I loved the minimalist, mid-century modern vibe of the place which let’s you view right into the barrel room and makes you feel like you’re part of the winemaking team.
Desparada: Urban winery, female owned, bad ass funky varieties and old classics made in everything from oak to amphorae. Don’t sleep on the cheese pairing, but do mind the snake in the indoor tasting room. We opted for an outdoor experience, and for that I am grateful.
Sans Liege: Metallica, but make it classy. These wines are unapologetic in a good way. Big, brash, but still balanced. You’re sitting next to the fermentation tanks and I suppose theres a chance a rogue hose could spray your way, but I’m into it.

I also recommend:

The Fableist
Field Recordings
Negranti Creamery (Small batch sheep’s milk ice cream. Do you like 🍦after wine? I do)
Barrelhouse Brewing
Tin City Cider
Etto Pasta Bar
Six Test Kitchen

WINE TASTING

Outside of Tin City there are of course MANY wineries to choose from and visit. And just like any other wine region, no two are alike. Here are a few of my favorites

Clos Selene Patio Tasting looking at vineyards